I cycled 87 kilometres (almost entirely uphill!) from Batumi on the Black Sea coast to Khulo in the Ajara mountains today, but have been hit with news this evening that, in a very literal sense, it was a journey in vain! The pass just east of here that I was set to ride over tomorrow morning is closed because of very heavy snow fall. Frustratingly, given how close I am to getting through these mountains, there is no alternative route through to the town I need to get to (Akhaltsikhe – just 81 kilometres away). The only viable solution is for me to return to Batumi and reroute north of the mountains, which will be a three-day detour.

What to make of today then? In the near term, there’s a temptation to dwell on the sense of futility, but there was so much to be thankful for today that I can’t really see it as a  waste! And I think, in time, I’ll come to find the whole debacle quite funny!

It was a beautiful day. Most obviously it was a privilege to be so connected with the stunning mountainous landscape in this part of Georgia – particularly on a day when the sun came out to bathe it. Spring was bursting through everywhere – trees festooned in blossom, magnolia trees in full flower, and pockets of purple iris punctuating the roadside. It made me happy.

There were meaningful connections too in the happenstance of crossing paths with people during the ride. I always find it deeply moving to feel shared bonds with individuals in vastly different parts of the world whose lives are notionally so different from mine. I don’t think we can go too far wrong in remembering that any two humans have about 99.9% of their DNA in common, and we share a very similar percentage of our hopes and fears too.

A boy (perhaps aged eight or nine) lovingly clasped the hand of his grandmother – hunched at such a right angle that her back was parallel to the ground – and held a bunch of flowers in the other hand as they climbed the steps together to a solitary grave perched above the road. It was a scene so universal in its love and simplicity.

Elderly men waved and gave me encouragement as I passed them – just as they’d so kindly done in every country between home and here. Friday markets in the little mountain towns bustled with activity. A young girl shouted “hello” from her school playground, and broke out into a beaming smile as I waved back enthusiastically. And it wasn’t just humans who provided the connections! I encountered a lot of beautiful animals today too – none more so than a wonderful dog who ran with me for two kilometres (very respectfully and with remarkable road savvy), keeping up even as I hit some respite from the mostly relentless climb and upped my speed to 35kph!

Now then. Some rerouting and planning to be done!